套染

 

This is an additional dyeing after the jeans have been sewn. This ensures a very deep dark or black colour and makes the sewing thread blend in with the jeans colour.

在牛仔褲縫紉好之后，這是一個附加的染色過程。它要求一個非常深的黑或者是黑色，并且要使縫紉線的顏色和牛仔褲顏色相協(xié)調(diào)。

 

Dirty wash

懷舊洗

 

After stone-washing the jeans or denim jackets, they will be dyed with special chemicals, thus creating a look in which the jeans will appear to be dirty.

石洗牛仔褲和牛仔夾克之后，他們將再用特殊的化學(xué)物質(zhì)再染一次，這樣可以使牛仔褲看起來比較懷舊。

 

Destroyed/damaged/used/whiskers:

撕破/破壞/做舊/貓須

 

There are several different techniques to make the jeans or denim jackets look old, worn and /or used. Most of these techniques involve actual sandblasting or abrading by some kind of power tool. Whiskers, which normally appear around the hip to crotch area of the pant, are usually made by using a grinder. Another popular way to make jeans appear damaged is to cut the edges at bottom, (back-) pockets, fly and knee area before the (stone) washing.

有幾種不同的工藝能夠使牛仔褲或牛仔夾克看起來比較舊和破。大多數(shù)工藝包括目前的噴砂及利用一種電動工具進行打磨。貓須，通常出現(xiàn)在褲子的臀部和胯部，通常會使用研磨機。另外一個流行的能使牛仔破損的方法就是水洗前，剪掉褲腿的邊緣，（后）口袋，鈕牌和膝蓋部位。

 

Laser marking/Spray painting, etc

鐳射/噴涂，等

 

From the high-tech side there has been a renewed interest in the jeans and garment industry in general. A few of the very cool new inventions are: The jeans laser marker and the Jeans spray robot, as shown below. However, due to the relative high cost of these machines they are hard to find in these parts of asia.

從高科技角度，在牛仔褲和服裝行業(yè)一直都有一種更新的興趣。一些非?？岬男掳l(fā)明是：牛仔褲激光打標(biāo)機和牛仔褲噴漆機器人，下面會顯示。但是，由于這些機器的成本相對較高，所以在亞洲部分國家很難看到它們。

 

Objects of invention

發(fā)明的物體

 

It is a primary object of this invention to provide a method for creating a stonewashed appearance on denim fabric and garments. 

這個發(fā)明的主要目的就是提供一種方法在牛仔布和服裝上面創(chuàng)造一種石洗的外觀效果。

 

It is a related object of this invention to provide a flexible process which avoids the many disadvantages of using pumice stones or permanganate-impregnated pumice stones to create colour and wear appearances on denim fabric or garments. 

這個發(fā)明的相關(guān)目的是提供一個靈活的工藝，避免利用浮石洗和高錳酸鉀石洗帶來的很多損害，從而在牛仔布和服裝上面創(chuàng)造顏色及耐久性的外觀。

 

It is a further and related object of this invention to improve upon the cellulase-based treatment processes of the prior art. 

這是更深入的和相關(guān)這個發(fā)明對象在先前技術(shù)上改變酶的處理工藝。

 

It is a further and related object of this invention to provide an efficient, low-cost process using foamed cellulases to create a high-quality stone-washed appearance on denim fabric or garments using standard commercial washing equipment, which does not damage the fabrics or the machines in which the fabrics are processed. 

這個發(fā)明的更深入和相關(guān)目的是提供一個高效、低成本的工藝，利用發(fā)泡纖維素酶創(chuàng)造一種高質(zhì)量的石洗牛仔及服裝外觀，并且用不會損害面料和機器的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的商業(yè)水洗機進行處理。

 

Foaming agents

發(fā)泡劑

 

Acceptable foaming agents include, for example, exthoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated alkyl phenols, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide block polymers, carboxylic acid amides, sulfated amides, amine oxides, ethoxylated amines, sulfated, phosphated, or carboxylated alcohol ethoxylates, sulfated phosphated, or carboxylated alkyphenol ethoxylates, sulphated, phosphated, carboxylated or sulfonated alcohols, and alkyl carboxylates.

可使用的發(fā)泡劑包括，比如，乙氧基化醇類的硫酸酯、乙氧基烷基酚類化合物、環(huán)氧乙烷、胺氧化物、乙氧基胺、硫酸鹽、磷酸鹽、或是乙氧基乙醇羧化物、硫酸鹽磷酸鹽、或者羧酸鹽烷基酚乙氧基、硫酸鹽、磷酸鹽、羧酸鹽、磺化乙醇和烷基羧化物。

 

Foam stabilisers 

泡沫穩(wěn)定劑

 

Acceptable foam stabilisers include natural gums such as locust or guar gums, the carboxymethylated or ethoxylated derivatives of starch and cellulose, and synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acid derivatives. 

可使用的泡沫穩(wěn)定劑包括自然樹膠，如蝗蟲或者瓜爾豆膠，羧甲基化物或是淀粉和纖維素的乙氧基派生物，及合成聚合體如聚丙烯酸的派生物。

 

The invention is further described in the following Examples: 

下面的例子更進一步地說明這個發(fā)明：

 

Denim garment processing: the eco-friendly way

牛仔服裝加工：環(huán)保方式

 

The domestic readymade garment sector is booming, and garment processing has emerged as one of the important production routes towards meeting quick changing demands of the fashion market. In this article we look at processing of denim garments.

目前國內(nèi)服裝市場很興旺，為了迎合瞬息萬變的時尚服裝市場變化，服裝加工已經(jīng)成為一條非常重要的生產(chǎn)路徑。在這篇文章里面，我們將看到牛仔服裝的加工過程。

 

Advantages of garment processing

服裝加工的好處

 

* Increases the opportunities available for differentiation of the end product. 

增加最終產(chǎn)品差異化的機會。

* Offers option to retailer, which are not available in piece good finishing. 

針對產(chǎn)品的銷路好壞，為零售商提供選擇。

* Gives opportunity to impart unique looks and finishes that cannot be achieved in fabric form. 

給予產(chǎn)品獨特的外觀和后處理效果，這些是在面料時無法現(xiàn)實的。

* It allows to hold colour and finishes until the last minute and enables you to shorten the time to market. 

即使到最后了，都能加上顏色和后處理效果，能夠加快產(chǎn)品更新?lián)Q代的速度。

 

The spread of denim culture, all over the world brought with it a trend of fast changing fashions. One after another, several washes were introduced such as stone wash, acid wash, moonwash, monkey wash, snow wash, frosted wash, white wash, mud wash, etc. Over the last 6-8 years, India has probably seen the most dramatic and exciting changes in the washing of denim garments.

牛仔文化的傳播，給全世界帶來了快速變化的時尚風(fēng)潮。緊接著，一些水洗方法被介紹出來，如石洗、酸洗、月亮洗、噴馬騮、雪花洗、霜洗、洗白、泥洗等。過去6-8年，印度已經(jīng)見證了牛仔服裝水洗最戲劇性和激動人心的變化。

 

Desizing 

退漿

 

Traditional desizing is performed by using acid or oxidative desizing agents, which is associated with many drawbacks and limitations. Due to uncontrolled and non-specific reaction, the cellulose material gets damaged and loses strength. With the introduction of enzyme based desizing process, the limitation and drawbacks of traditional desizing process can be overcome. The enzymatic desizing process is performed by using alphaamylase enzyme.

傳統(tǒng)的退漿是利用酸或者氧化退漿劑現(xiàn)實的，但是這個方式有很多缺點和局限。由于不可控制和沒有明確反映，纖維素物質(zhì)受到破壞并失去彈力。隨著酶介紹到退漿過程中，傳統(tǒng)的退漿的缺點和局限得到了改善。酶的退漿工藝通過阿爾法淀粉酶運行的。

 

Advantages of enzymatic desizing over traditional desizing

酶退漿相對于傳統(tǒng)退漿的優(yōu)勢

 

1. Due to very specific reaction of enzyme, there is no adverse effect on cellulose, therefore better strength retention.

由于酶的非常明確的反應(yīng)，所以對纖維素沒有幅作用，因此有較好的強度保留。

 

2. Saving of water as multiple washing is not required to remove the residual chemicals after desizing.

節(jié)水，由于多重洗水退漿之后不需要除去剩余的化學(xué)物。

 

3. Process time of desizing can be reduced.

退漿能夠減少加工時間。

 

4. Neutralisation is not required because same processing conditions are required in next process, therefore zero salt formation in ETP.

中和不要求了，因為同樣的工藝條件被要求在下個工序里，因此在ETP里沒有鹽形成。

 

5. Saving of energy as desizing takes place at moderate temperature.

節(jié)能，因為退漿在中等溫度下進行。

 

6. Feel of fabric is much softer and less hairiness on the fabric.

面料手感更加柔和，面料上更少的毛。

 

7. No adverse effect on other bath auxiliaries due to mild process condition.

由于溫和的加工條件，在其他浴助劑上沒有幅作用。

 

8. No adverse effect on Lycra or polyester containing fabric.

對于包含萊卡和聚酯的面料沒有幅作用。

 

9. Handling of chemical is safe and easy.

處理化學(xué)品更加安全和簡單。

 

10. No adverse effect on machinery.

對機器沒有損傷。